ChibiJack Pages

Chibi Jack Instructions
Simple Ragdoll

Thurs, 29 Mar, 2007
Lee Thompson-Herbert

You will need:

A little over 1 yd of unbleached muslin fabric for the doll
1 to 1-1/2 bags of polyfill
Strong thread in a color that matches your doll's body. Button twist or upholstry fabric is best.
A hand-sewing needle with an eye that will fit that thread. I find a curved needle is slightly easier to use.
A large upholstry needle with an eye that will fit 1/8" grosgrain ribbon
a spool of cheapie 1/8" grosgrain ribbon (white or natural). My local fabric store sells a 6yd spool for 99 cents. Just make sure you're buying grosgrain ribbon, not satin.
Fray Check
Stuffing tools. These can be any sort of long, blunt, smooth objects that won't poke a hole through your fabric. I've seen crafters use large knitting needles, chopsticks, flat-bladed screwdrivers, and various commerical "stuffing forks." Sometimes a set of long-nosed hemostats or very long needle-nose pliers is helpful for getting stuffing into corners.
A really sharp set of scissors

You've already sewn your pattern pieces together, leaving the tops open. Cut them out, paint the edges with Fray Check if you haven't already. Take the Leg pieces, and get out the TOE template from the pattern pack. Mark the foot end of one Leg as a Right foot (template right-side up) and one as a Left foot (template wrong-side up).

Pin the foot down flat

Sew around your newly-marked seam line

Remove the pins, flip over and sew the seam again, as close as possible to the original seam, then paint the entire seam with Fray Check. When it's dry, trim one seam-allowance width

Your first pass with the patterns sewed the Head Fronts and Head Backs together. DON'T joint front-to-back yet)

Flip the Head Front pieces over and mark a sewing line on the unmarked side.

Cut out the head pattern pieces and paint them with Fray Check.

NOW you will sew the Fronts to the Backs.
Open up the pieces and join the Front to Back, meeting at the triangular notch and the center point

Next pin the two outside corners, then pin the rest, taking care to make sure the edges match

Flip the piece over and pin the other side, using the same method

Sew carefully along your sewing line starting near the top of the crown, taking care not to catch a fold of fabric under the seam. Be careful to especially follow the seamline at the bottom corner, as that's what forms the doll's chin.

Unpin and pull the piece slightly open. You should be able to see the head shape (it'll seem sort of malformed right now)

Paint edges with Fray Check and allow to dry

Now, clip the seam allowances of each piece. By doing so, you'll make it easier to turn the piece rightside-out without wrinkles or puckers. If your piece has puckers at a corner, gently stretch it a little, the wrinkles should ease out. Don't pull so hard that you pop the seam.

Stuff the pieces individually.

The Legs

Stuff the leg by starting with the Toe. Carefully pack the Toe with stuffing, then the heel. This will leave you with a gap in the midfoot. This is okay. Mold the foot a little at this point to give it the proper shape, then continue stuffing. Keep on til you have the midfoot and ankle firmly packed. Keep working, occasionally molding the foot and ankle in your hands to keep the shape correct. When you get above the ankle, you won't have to worry about shaping so much. Pack the stuffing in until just below the knee. Work carefully, making sure you're satisfied the lower leg is firm enough. You can't pack the stuffing past narrow spots in a limb or you'll risk ripping out your seam, so spots like the ankle, knee, wrist and elbow are places of No Return. When you've gotten the whole leg stuffed and almost overflowing, use your strong sewing thread and curved needle to close up the top opening (against the seam direction! see photo) halfway. Tie off, but do not cut thread

Leg almost stuffed (from jointed doll tutorial)

Make a knot anchored at the edge of your opening

Take a stitch or two to anchor your work

Carefully work either a ladder stitch or a whip stitch to close the opening. You will be pulling the seam closed against tension, so expect your first couple stitches to gap open until you pull everything tight.

Stitches pulled tight.

Tie off seam halfway across, but do not cut thread. Continue stuffing with a now smaller opening.

When there are no more gaps or sags in the leg, finish sewing up the opening.

The Arms
The hand should be started by carefully stuffing the thumb first. Pack it hard, using one of your stuffing tools, but don't puncture the fabric. Then carefully pack the ends of the fingers and hand. When you've done that, go on stuffing, making sure to press the stuffing down hard for each section so that the arm doesn't develop sags or bends at the wrist and elbow. Continue you almost to the very top, where you will carefully stitch the top closed halfway across the opening. Tie off, but don't cut your thread, just let it hang. Continue stuffing (you'll have noticed the stuffing has developed gaps at the top. Do that until the stuffing is nearly overflowing the opening. Stitch partway closed again. Leave enough room to insert more stuffing (slowly and carefully). fill up any gaps left. Handle, squeeze and shape your limb at this point to make sure there are no lumps or gaps in the middle. When you're satisfied with the shape and amount of stuffing (it should be nearly overflowing again), close the last of the opening and tie off. Use Fray Check on the knot and allow to dry before cutting the thread close.

The Body>
Stuff the body using the same method as above. Mold and knead piece to avoid lumps. You will probably need to use your stuffing tool to even out the distribution of stuffing in the piece. Make sure the SHOULDERS are firmly stuffed. Close the neck opening securely.

The Head
Start with the chin, making sure it's stuffed firmly. You may want to use a cotton pom-pom to fill the pointed chin to make sure you get a good, firm point.

Go slowly, trying to fill out the head in sections. You want to keep the head from getting lopsided or lumpy. You also want to try and pull the fabric as tight as possible, to get rid of wrinkles and puckers. There will probably be a few wrinkles around the chin area, but those will be covered by Jack's beard.